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Etruria Road, Basford
the original Basford Bank, known as Fowlea Bank
 


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Historian Fred Hughes writes....   

Fowlea Bank - "it’s like falling off the edge of the world"
Fowlea Bank - "it’s like falling off the edge of the world"

One of the longest and busiest roads in Stoke on Trent is Etruria Road. It stretches from the Victoria Theatre in Basford to the Grand Hotel in Hanley. But all that’s left of the original road is now nothing more than a tiny concealed lane that runs beside Basford’s Queen’s Hotel. It takes a historian to trace our heritage so I’ve again asked Steve Birks to help excavate the Potteries’ past. 

“The Queens Hotel was built as a superior mansion in 1769 by Derbyshire farmer Robert Emery,” begins Steve. “The house even out-did Wedgwood’s Etruria Hall for spectacular views. Wedgwood was on one side of the valley and Emery was looking down on him. What pleasure that would have given Emery, and I can just imagine how this might have vexed our great Etruscan potter.”

Etruria Road was constructed in 1820 as a consequence of a complaint against Josiah Wedgwood II. Apparently the petitioners were fed-up with the steep route that climbed a sheer 500 feet to the ridge. So they compelled Wedgwood to build a gentler gradient. You can see the old lane from the Queens behind Etruria Road and judge for yourself the merit in the complainant’s case; it’s like falling off the edge of the world.

“This was called Fowlea Bank,” Steve explains. “It originally passed alongside the Queens Hotel and the isolated white house that’s still there which was the toll-collectors house. Fowlea Bank was a turnpike road owned by the Wedgwood’s. Josiah II was charged to make provisions for a new road which is the top half of the Basford Bank we know today. Near to Emery’s house was the New Inn, an ancient pub built around 1769, helpful I suspect for ware carriers who were exhausted and ready for a pint after the uphill climb.”

Brick Kiln Lane
Brick Kiln Lane

At the bottom of Fowlea Bank the lane slopes into Brick Kiln Lane passing through the well-known company Potclays Limited where I meet its chairman and managing director Jonathan Noake who gives me a history of his family business.

Potclays
Potclays

“The company was started by my grandfather William who had been works manager for Twyfords before he retired. His interest was geology and he had ideas about producing inexpensive ball clay without having to go to Cornwall. He went to the South Staffs coalfield and made hundreds of enquiries with local miners about the quality of clay and discovered it was white and plastic enough to suit his ideas. The landlord of a pub called the Swan took him down his cellar and showed him a full seam of high-grade coal under-laid with the clay he wanted. So he bought the local mine and sold the coal and clay to sanitary-ware manufacturers in Stoke on Trent trading under the name The Potter’s Clay and Coal Company at the Swan Works, named after the pub.”

William died in 1939 and his son Warbreck Noake took over the businesses. During the war the company in Brownhills was requisitioned and used as a food storage depot with the manufacturing side producing nothing but coal. But in 1944 Warbreck and his wife Helen formed Potclays as a marketing company. Jonathan continues.

 “After the war a businessman named Bernard Leach developed a successful Japanese and stoneware product using clay on-site in Devon and Cornwall. This opened the gates for communes of hippies who set-up studios getting clay virtually from their back gardens. It was a supply market we eventually cornered with our own clay during the 1960’s and 70’s. From this point Potclays became the major merchant moving into kiln-ware and studio tools. I came into the business in 1969 from which time we stopped supplying to manufacturers altogether but doubled our turn-over each year to become biggest single clay supplier to studio and education outlets and in ceramic hobby-craft goods.”

Some of Potclays works
Some of Potclays works

I ask Jonathan about his connection with Etruria Road and Fowlea Bank.

“In the early 1940’s we rented a yard by the canal basin with a wharf that linked directly to our Brownhills Company. For quite a while we shipped our clay from South Staffs to Etruria by canal barge. We even had our own rail sidings at this time as well. When Downings Brick Company moved to Chesterton from Etruria we bought their site.” 

I recall there was once a large house at Potclays’ entrance.

“That would be Basford Lodge,” says Jonathan. “It was a handsome building that I wanted to develop into showplace offices. But a valuer advised me that it had unsolvable structural problems so we took it down.”


Etruria valley, the old Twyford's Works and Potclays - from Fowlea Bank
Etruria valley, the old Twyford's Works and Potclays - from Fowlea Bank

Halfway on the bank I meet residents Darryl and Jennifer Porter with their neighbours David and Jill Cartlidge.

“Things have changed a lot on the bank over the years and even more so since the D-Road altered the direction and the movement of traffic. There was a time when if you got behind a bus or a lorry it’d take ages to get up the old bank because of its steepness,” says Darryl.

The Porter’s have lived here for 30 years - “It’s much quieter at the back since the road has been moved away,” adds Jennifer. “Mind you the traffic noise at the front is continuous, but you get used to it.” 

David and Jill on the other hand have lived on the bank for 40 years. 

“We love it for its convenience,” says David. “We use the back rather than the front so I call it Back-Etruria Road.” 

Jill tells of the old days - “Before our time of course,” she smiles, “there used to be tethering posts at the top for the horses. After it was diverted quite a few businesses settled near the top.”

David recalls a dentist’s surgery-cum-house -“A later owner told me that every time he dug his garden over there was always a spade-full of teeth that came out with the soil.”

Coal, clay, teeth; what ever next can be dug from Basford Bank?

 

 more on the old Basford Bank

17 June 2008


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